Monte Naturista O Barão

To people more familiar with the Algarve, the Alentejo region might come as a bit of a shock. This is rural Portugal at its most elemental. Although Lisbon and Faro airports are only a 90-minute drive away to the north and south respectively, Monte Naturista O Barão is very different from the bright lights of the capital city or the villas on the south coast.

As the sun rises over the eucalyptus forest, making the oranges in the nearby groves stand out like lights on Christmas trees, goldfinches flit and chatter amongst the yellow, blue and white wildflowers that spread across the landscape in spring. In the early morning light the Alentejan landscape is lit up with yellow and orange, throwing the cork oaks, olives, agaves, bamboo and eucalyptus into sharp relief. Somehow the trees and plants survive in the ochre sandy ground, which in places is so fine it is like walking on a beach.

Small green lizards, golden orioles and red-breasted robins skip between the shrubs as the day progresses, and the domesticated livestock consists of dogs, cats, chickens and goats. Grey-green eucalyptus bark crackles as it curls and peels in the warmth of the sun. Cork oaks, with a painted number showing the year they had their bark stripped, stand amongst stone pines and silvery-leaved olive trees. The most noticeable sounds are birdsong and goatbells, and the sky belongs to buzzards and storks.

At night the Milky Way sparkles over the Alentejan landscape with millions of stars due to the absence of any light pollution. Trails of meteorites streak across the sky from Orion’s belt, and Barn Owls circle lazily around each other as they fly silhouetted overhead. Apart from the occasional barking of dogs in the nearby village, nature’s sounds, the calling of owls, frogs and crickets, are all that punctuate the night.

This remarkable 17 acre site owes its existence to Jeff and Laura, who left their native Holland in 2003 to build their dream, settled here and have enthusiastically put their hearts into the project. In that time much progress has been made. The original outdoor shower consisted of a water tank in a tree. Today a modern, well-equipped wash-house offers more civilised amenities as well as excellent acoustics for those who enjoy singing in the shower.

A new swimming pool has replaced the temporary above-ground one which stood outside the bar, and there are plans for log cabins to provide more spacious accommodation, and a bathing lake. Like an ever-maturing garden, this project is dynamic and will continue to develop and grow, but always in harmony with its environment.

If you feel the need to explore further afield, extensive Roman ruins nearby at Santiago do Cacem offer a glimpse into the area’s history. The impressive Atlantic coast, including an official naturist beach at Porto Covo, is only a 45-minute drive away through a rural landscape that has changed little for centuries.

The trails through the forest are good for walking and cycling beside fields and vineyards, but the roads are relatively clear of traffic and give access to local amenities such as cashpoints and supermarkets. Excellent wines of the region can be bought from local shops or directly from the vineyards

If traditional food in a typical Portuguese restaurant sounds tempting, then this can be found a few km away. Black pig, bacalhau, lamb, fish and beef dishes are on the menu, and are served in an atmosphere of bold colours and animated discussions that make the average English restaurant feel like a library in comparison.

Monte Naturista O Barão is different. It is popular especially with British and Dutch people who enjoy being naturist naturally, and who want to relax in a stress-free environment. The 21st century is within reach, just outside the gate and along the track, but if you need to stretch your arms into the sky while digging your toes into the soil of a country in order to feel its soul, then this is the place for that experience.